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I want to do some shots in infra-red with my Alpha 350 , up until now I have used sfx 200 B+W film . I recently bought a cokin I/R filter but got nowhere with it . Do I need a different body to use it or am I just being thick ? Thanks in advance, Pete.
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The way a 35mm SLR worked is still pretty much the same concept now minus the sensor or film area. Whilst before you could shoot direct to IR film, DSLRs have an IR filter to stop causing issues with the final image. This cannot be removed easily since it's there to serve a very fundamental purpose and by removing it, could lead to poor quality photos or if not done carefully, damage to components or the sensor itself. The digital and cheapest fix is going to use IR filters but cause havoc with shutter speeds and focusing so you either go down the tripod route or really bump up the ISO but in turn, lowering the quality of images. The most straight forward option would be to just use a 35mm SLR. There are specialists who maybe able to provide a conversion but voids any warranty but will also mean you DLR will only be able to take IR photos which is why the filters came about. Hope that gives you some insight.
Yes, a good explanation Watashiwateshdes.
Perversely, the newer your camera, the worse it will be at recording IR as the IR Blocking Filter built into all digital cameras has become more efficient. Early DSLRs are much better.
You should still get a near IR image by using an IR filter as long as you give a long enough exposure - around 5 seconds or more for a 'normal' scene. You will need to use B&W Mode and f8 or higher to get over the different focus setting for IR.
To answer your question, you really need a converted body which has had the blocking filter removed and a new visible light filter inserted between the mirror and the sensor so you can actually see the image in the viewfinder. However, this is a costly option unless you are really serious about IR.
This is an interesting link: -
Hi, it can be done - however due to the ir blocking filter the results will not be good, you will have to use a tripod as the exposure times are very long 5 seconds plus and with zoom lenses there will be a 'hotspot' a ligher circular area of exposure in the centre of the photograph, this is due to the lens consruction - I even had hotspots with a prime lens, again this is due to SLR lens construction. You will have to use a converted camera
or one without the IR blocker - there are few of these Leica M8 works very well - perfect digital IR with handheld exposure times in the order of 39th to 90th of a second but it's a costly way to do it!
Shoot in RAW colour mode at the lowest white balance you can (2000) and covert to b/w you can then manipulate in photoshop or lightroom.
With the right set up the results can be stunning!
Hope this helps
Tony
The way a 35mm SLR worked is still pretty much the same concept now minus the sensor or film area. Whilst before you could shoot direct to IR film, DSLRs have an IR filter to stop causing issues with the final image. This cannot be removed easily since it's there to serve a very fundamental purpose and by removing it, could lead to poor quality photos or if not done carefully, damage to components or the sensor itself. The digital and cheapest fix is going to use IR filters but cause havoc with shutter speeds and focusing so you either go down the tripod route or really bump up the ISO but in turn, lowering the quality of images. The most straight forward option would be to just use a 35mm SLR. There are specialists who maybe able to provide a conversion but voids any warranty but will also mean you DLR will only be able to take IR photos which is why the filters came about. Hope that gives you some insight.
Yes, a good explanation Watashiwateshdes.
Perversely, the newer your camera, the worse it will be at recording IR as the IR Blocking Filter built into all digital cameras has become more efficient. Early DSLRs are much better.
You should still get a near IR image by using an IR filter as long as you give a long enough exposure - around 5 seconds or more for a 'normal' scene. You will need to use B&W Mode and f8 or higher to get over the different focus setting for IR.
To answer your question, you really need a converted body which has had the blocking filter removed and a new visible light filter inserted between the mirror and the sensor so you can actually see the image in the viewfinder. However, this is a costly option unless you are really serious about IR.
This is an interesting link: -
Hi, it can be done - however due to the ir blocking filter the results will not be good, you will have to use a tripod as the exposure times are very long 5 seconds plus and with zoom lenses there will be a 'hotspot' a ligher circular area of exposure in the centre of the photograph, this is due to the lens consruction - I even had hotspots with a prime lens, again this is due to SLR lens construction. You will have to use a converted camera
or one without the IR blocker - there are few of these Leica M8 works very well - perfect digital IR with handheld exposure times in the order of 39th to 90th of a second but it's a costly way to do it!
Shoot in RAW colour mode at the lowest white balance you can (2000) and covert to b/w you can then manipulate in photoshop or lightroom.
With the right set up the results can be stunning!
Hope this helps
Tony
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