Share your experience!
Hi Harry,
I don't think that will be a problem, if you buy a product which is not fit for purpose most shops will refund if it is done within 7-10 days. Pass Through is meant to work, if it does not it gives a good case for refund.
Cheers.
I've taken the plunge!
Thanks for all your help Slinky and Harry - I'll let you know how it goes!
As an aside, quite tempted to setup a blog/some form of online document where owners of the Sony STR DN 1040 can let others know what setup (TV mainly) they have and any issues (i.e. dreaded 30 second cutt-off) they have, to guide others. Just need to find the time in between all this playing with new tech, oh and work..
Cheers,
Richard
Good idea.., this forum is probably the best place to do that, it's where most search engines will direct you. I think any user guide that would negate the need to keep trawling through an on-line manual would be useful, although quite complex the Sony manual does not really help individuals with different setups.
Funnily enough I had a similar idea in mind and specifically for this unit, I'm interested in knowing what features other users find most useful together with their favourite audio settings for music and movies.
For me personally with the one great feature I discovered recently was AirPlay, more about that in my other post here: SR-DN1040 Gapless Audio Playback - Finally it Works!!!
As for my favourite sound settings, movies I prefer the direct approach 'HD-DCS set to Studio' as the movie creator intended and without additional processing. Music on the other hand I like 'MULTI ST' which gives an equal volume across all speakers. Some of the DSP settings just don't sound right with MP3's. CDs on the other hand sound good with several DSP settings.
I'll watch this space...
Hi all,
Here's my thoughts/feedback after having owned this amp for a few days:
For reference my setup is as follows:
Sky HD -> Amp (HDMI + Coaxial audio)
Xbox 360 -> Amp (Component + Optical audio)
Wii -> Amp (Component + Stereo/phono audio - I have a Wii HDMI adapter on the way that will replace all this)
LG Blu-ray player -> Amp (HDMI)
WD TV Live -> Amp (HDMI)
PC -> Amp (HDMI + Optical audio)
Amp -> TV HDMI 1 (and no other connections to TV now)
1. HDMI pass-through
This works 100% as it should after setting to 'auto'. If I'm watching Sky HD through the amp, audio is output from amp speakers, then switch amp off (standby) and audio switches to TV speakers. Picture/audio stay on TV and don't disappear after 30 seconds - phew!
For reference, my TV is a Panasonic Viera TH-42PZ70B-PED - as previously mentioned I hope to setup some kind of online table to help others find working matches given time.
2. Switching
I have 'Control for HDMI' set to 'on' on the amp. My TV seems to be aware it's connected to another CEC device as in the 'Viera Link' menu I get the option 'Others'. If I select that I get the message 'Please use Other's remote controller'. No switching appears to take place though - I kinda expected if my amp and TV were in standby and I switched on the amp the TV would automatically switch on too? Also, should there be amp-level switching so if I switch on the say the BR player it automatically gets switched to?
If everything is off and I switch the TV on (via the main power button, not from standby) it seems to sit in a state of trying to find an input (it's set to use 'AV' by default) with 'EC/HDMI 1' on screen. I have to hit the AV button on the remote for it to find the amp.
I feel there's more to investigate here and I haven't even looked at using the amp remote to control other devices yet.
3. Brief picture loss
A few times whilst watching Sky HD with the amp on the picture has briefly vanished and re-appeared with 'EC/HDMI 1' shown on the TV - like it's temporarily lost signal. After a while it clicked that this seems to be happening when a small beer fridge connected to the same power brick as the TV switches on (all others devices are on a separate Masterplug SRPTU122PB USB brick). I'll try replacing that power brick with a surge protected model and worst case plug it in elsewhere.
4. Sky HDMI/audio pass-through
For Sky audio to be passed through correctly to my TV (when amp is in standby) it needs to be stereo PCM (not DD) so I had to set the Sky box to output stereo over HDMI. I still wanted DD when played through the amp though so added a coax cable and changed the 'input mode' on the amp to coax (it defaults to using the HDMI audio signal) - all now as expected.
5. Can unused inputs be removed from 'Watch'/'Listen' menus?
As the title suggests really, I have a couple of unused inputs but they still show up in those two menus - is there any way of hiding them? I've tried changing their names to blank but they get reset back to their defalt names.
Essay over for now - I'll update as and when. Overall, minor niggles above aside, this amp is pretty much perfect for me, I'm extremely happy with the purchase..
Cheers,
Richard
Hi Rich,
Good to hear from you again and welcome to the DN140 club!
It certainly sounds like you've been having some fun with that new beasty of yours! I'm so pleased you haven't had any major hiccups along the way.
Obviously having your equipment connected differently to my own I cannot comment much on what you've said. I would point out however that it's probably not a good idea to have your beer fridge plugged into the same power block as your AMP. Fridges run motors as you most likely know and devices like that are likely to introduce unwelcome noise or interference when any switching of the motor takes place.
I had experience of this myself a few years ago. I had my TV connector strip plugged into the double socket my fridge\freezer was plugged into. Every now and then I would get sparkles on the TV screen which I soon realised was when the motor on the fridge had cut in.
Having read a little about power surges I went out and purchased a surge protector and plugged that in but it only lasted a few short months. Of course that got me quite worried! Eventually I decided to have an electrician install another power socket and whilst he was working I mentioned the previous issue above. He said that he would never recommend sharing a socket with a fridge\freezer as they are notorious for causing power spikes when the motors cut in and the sparkles were probably an indication that all was not well. Best to be safe I guess.
On another note you mentioned..
If everything is off and I switch the TV on (via the main power button, not from standby) it seems to sit in a state of trying to find an input (it's set to use 'AV' by default) with 'EC/HDMI 1' on screen. I have to hit the AV button on the remote for it to find the amp.
If you refer to the notes I sent you in my previous PM, if you set the TV Power On Pref's to 'TV' as opposed to 'AV', when you turn the TV on it should also power on the AMP and change to the correct EC/HDMI 1 channel. You may recall I had tried that setting myself but preferred not to have the AMP running every time I turn the TV on.
5. Can unused inputs be removed from 'Watch'/'Listen' menus?
Not that I am aware of. You can however chose not to have certain items showing on both menus. You may have read about that already in the manual but if not here's what it says on Page: 95
On the Inputs Menu
Lets you set whether an input is displayed on the Watch menu or the Listen menu.
[W]: Displays an input to the Watch menu.
[L]: Displays an input to the Listen menu.
[W/L]: Displays an input to both the Watch and Listen menus
Let us know if you solve any of the above,
Cheers chap!
Hi Slinky,
3. Brief picture loss
Sorry, may not have described it well - the TV and fridge are connected to the same wall socket (via a 4-way extension) but the amp and all other AV equipment are connected to another wall socket via one of these: http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B006HFMEOC.
I _think_ I've rectified that particular problem by replacing the HDMI cable from the amp to the TV, after reading a few forums. Hasn't happened since that change, yet. Weirdly I've replaced a decent quality cable with something cheaper although the decent quality cable did make use of a right angle adapter which may be the real issue - I'll test further when I get chance. For sanity I've also changed the fridge/TV extension to a surge protected unit.
2. Switching
I'll test your power on to TV suggestion when I get a minute but not sure what result that'll give as I don't use the TV tuner part of my TV (Sky HD passed through the amp). What I _think_ is happening is when I hard-switch off my TV, the amp detects this and stops the 'auto' pass-through signal (I believe I hear a click), then when I hard-switch the TV back on it doesn't have a signal to pick up anymore and for some reason the amp isn't re-'auto' passing the signal back through.. if that makes sense.. If I switch the amp back on or press the 'AV' button things seem to correct themselves.. more to investigate again I guess!
Out of interest what do you see on your 'Viera Link' menu? I just get 'Others' which according to the manual is it detecting a device but it's not a Panny.. which kinda sounds right.
5. Can unused inputs be removed from 'Watch'/'Listen' menus?
Yep, for the moment I've moved the unused inputs to just 'Listen' as I'm less likely to use that menu. Would much prefer to have them hidden from all menus though - especially when using the jog-dial input selector on the front of the amp (so I don't have to skip past them).. I wonder if there's somewhere to make suggestions to Sony..
Cheers,
Rich
Flipping Sony!!!!!!!!!!! Argh!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I just spent an hour typing my reply, clicked send and got an authentication failed error!!!!!!!!!!!! My whole reply wiped out in an instant!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I'll try again later! Sorry mate!
Eeek! That's happened to me twice now too! I've taken to copying the whole text every now and again so I have a backup if things go bad..
Yes I should have learned by now, it happens often on this forum!
I've sent you a shortened reply by PM, if anything works I'll repost it here. It might help someone.
Let me know how you get on.
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