Share your experience!
Hi all - been lurking and reading to try and find solutions to the issues with my KD55XD7005. Convinced my better half that we needed a new TV to take pride of place in the lounge of our brand new house that we moved into late in May. Instead it's become a total pain and point of chastisement as 'our old (cheaper) TV never did that"!
First up is the connection to the internet both wired and LAN can be problematic - I've played with settings galore both with TV and router and still often get the 'TV is not connected to the Internet' message - usually when my five year old wants to watch something on Amazon. Many resets and power cycle later it will work.
Next up is the he HDMI ARC function connected to an LG SH6 Soundbar which can be problematic - it can switch to TV speakers for no reason, or it won't turn the soundbar on and there will be no sound. I find it seems to just loose any connection to it if I had previously used the soundbar play Spotify from my Google Home. To get it connected again can take any random combination of playing with both the TV and the soundbar's settings to no avail then lo-and-behold the next time I switch it on it just works. Additionally, on switching the TV on the volume control can be tediously slow to respond for a good few minutes - not good early morning if I had the volume rather loud the night before and I forgot to lower it before swtiching off... which I shouldn't need to remind mysefl to do anyway.
Finally and most annoyingly the TV can randomly switch itself on during the night and this is usually when the HDMI ARC function does work... rather loudly (I'm trying to train myself to lower the volume before going to bed... again I shouldn't need to do this). This is the thing that can draw the most venom from she who knows best who had to be convinced to buy the TV instead of a new set of drawers. Not good.
Both TV and Soundbar have the latest firmware/software updates and I have read these forums and played with settings, tired factory reset etc etc. but there is no discernible pattern to how, when and why things happen. It's become extremely frustrating and I have opned a case with Sony support.
Hi there
Question 1 - Network
Using a 'wired' connection and ethernet cable :
Question 2 - ARC
Try going through this troubleshooting guide and see if it helps:
https://community.sony.co.uk/t5/android-tv/hdmi-problems-troubleshooting-steps/td-p/2141941
Question 3 - TV turning itself on
Unfortuately this is a known issue - see HERE. However it seems to occur about 3-4 times and then goes away. If the TV is turning itself on constantly, there might be another device connected to the TV that is doing it. To test this theory, disable Bravia Sync on the TV and test. It this cures the problem, then it is definately a connected device on the TV - you will just need to figure out which one.
Another possibility is the network connection - a device on your network maybe waking the TV up. Turn OFF 'Remote Start' in the TVs network settings
Hopefully this helps
Cheers
Thanks for the reply.
It has a wired LAN connection to my new BT Home Hub as this would be my preferred way to connect and I'm pretty sure I've played with the new network settings and have defintely tried to setup a static IP. Last time it just failed to connect (power cycled the hub etc) and ended up going to to a WiFi connection - if WiFI is on it just won't connect via LAN so I need to disable WiFi t get the LAN to work so in theory shoudl be 'always on' but I still get the message your TV is no longer conncted to the internet when I switch it on from standby.
ARC - I have seen that page and tried the solutions, even buying a new cbale to replace the new one I had bought with TV. I'm pretty sure it has something to do with the enable command after I have played Spotify - even if I commnad Google to switch off or stop casting the TV won't power/swtich the soundar on. Tnen if I try to enable it via Bravia Sync (with soundbar swtich to HDMI in via remote and setting in app for home theatre) it trys to connect via optial cabel and I get a message along the lines of - if no sound try swtich speakers to HDMI in!
The swtiching on thing - you might be right that it does it only a few times then stops, but the playing about/ppower cycling due to the previous issues seems to re-introduce it. I have disabled the settings to swtich it on via other devices/sources etc and uninstalled the app on phones/tablets etc The only thing connected tot he TV is the Soundbar.
"she who knows best had to be convinced to buy the TV instead of a new set of drawers"
My wife would be cross as well if buying a new TV meant she had to stick with her old panties
So still having problems - I think I narrowed the swtiching on issue to something Wi-Fi related even though I have it so that it cannot be switched on remotely. However if I turn Wi Fi off (which would be my preference) then when LAN drops (for no reason) it means either reseting router or physically switching ports on it.
Anyway I got in touch with Sony and they sent a tech from reapir company out and he was stumped - their soloution is to take the TV away and put a new main board in. I wasn't happy with this as I think it's software, it a new TV and shuldnt need a new main board and after a bit of back and forth between repair company and Sony the have said that it's the main board having a 'handshake' issue with the software... so everyone with this TV must surely be having the same issues then...
I'm not sure what to do - I'm not happy with it having to go in for a 'repair' and I'm not sure this will solve the issue... think i'm goign to have to read up on my consumer rights.
There is a good summary of your consumer rights here.
You are past 30 days, I assume? If not, you have the absolute right to reject, and you should exercise it without delay.
But you are within six months, where the supplier has to prove there wasn't an inherent fault, rather than you having to prove there was,
Your rights are against the retailer who sold it to you, not against Sony; you can ask for a repair or a replacement, but the retailer gets to choose which, unless you can argue that a repair would take unreasonably long or cause you significant inconvenience.
Trouble is that while users don't normally get all the problems you describe at once(!), there is nothing there that somebody hasn't reported as a problem with one of these sets. So what counts as a repair? Getting rid of all those faults? Or just most of them?
But certainly, if you allow a repair and it is unsatisfactory, you then have the right to a full refund.
Given the drastic level of repair being considered here on a very new TV, I would argue with the retailer for a replacement, or even a refund, not a repair.
And if you can get get a refund, or a choice of replacement, consider very carefully, in consultation with your family, what that replacement should be.
About the Internet connections have you tried the other way around? I mean, disconnecting the Ethernet and using WiFi (preferrably ac). It will be even faster if the TV isn't too far aways from the router. Still it would be good for testing, to narrow down the issue. Another thing that you may try, and just fixed my new issue of the Ethernet disconnecting (for too long) during sleep time has been to enable IP Control. It doesn't really do much fancy, it only starts a service that listen for commands from remote apps (like virtual remote control apps).
About the reboots I had plenty on Android 6.0.1 in my XD80. They nearly disappeared on Android 7.0 (which is what you should have since you wrote that you have the latest firmware on everything). Still you may want to double check the instruction in here to see if that is the case. I would also try disconnecting the soundbar for few days and see if anything improves.
Also, at least to reduce the annoyances, your soundbar may have an option for the initial volume when turning it on. Some AVR do, at least.
So, to recap, I'd personally try the following:
If you still get many issues I would try a last reset to factory settings, using then the configuration above. And if it still doesn't work I am afraid that means the guy from service was right, the mainboard should be faulty.
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